Tuesday, May 7, 2013

Russian Orthodox Easter

This past weekend, we in Moldova, celebrated Easter. Easter is the biggest holiday celebrated during the year over here in this neck of the woods. And, I don't think anyone would argue that Moldovans know how to party. The preparations begin well in advance with the annual spring cleaning. Having now experienced spring cleaning two years in a row I can say that I have gotten a complete education on what it means for a house to be celan. Every surface of the house gets a complete scrub down, including the ceiling, the outdoor car park, curtains get washed and ironed and, all the cupboards get emptied and cleaned. This process usually takes about a week... that's not including prepping the garden, cleaning and re-painting the chicken cope and the outhouse. Like I said, it's a process. All of this gets completed before the big weekend.

Saturday is spent cooking up delicious foods, meats, cheeses, and veggies...and of course the traditional rooster jello. The forty days leading up to Easter disciplined followers take part in a fully vegan diet. So, preparing all of those delicious foods and having to wait until the following day to eat them is quite a test (well, for them, not for me... I ate whatever I wanted). On a fun note, I know I am now truly a part of the family because host mom went out of her way to prepare all dishes with both pork and chicken (because I don't eat pork). It was a full day of cooking but, the day doesn't stop there.

Saturday night everyone heads off to the church for an evening of worship. We left the house around 11pm driving to a big monastery a half hour from the house. Hîncu is a large beautiful monastery where hundreds of worshipers gather to celebrate the holiday.

The service is unlike anything I have attended in the US. At midnight the church bishop and priests exit the church and are greeted by the crowd of followers. Candle light illuminates the darkness. The priests pass off their candle light to the people in attendance, who than pass off the light to each other. the bishop and his buddies then lead the group around the outside of the church abunch of times before they enter the church once again. Everyone crams in and so begins the chanting and singing 'Christ has risen' 'He has risen'... this goes on until about 4am. At 4am the bishop exits the church, this time instead of circling the church he blesses all the poeple and their offerings with holy water. After getting splashed with holy water everyone makes a mad dash back to their cars and home for an early morning feast.

After a couple of hours of sleep it was time to wake-up for another full day of partying. One of my favorite dishes served during Easter is a beet and horseradish slaw, it adds a unique kick to the food. My host brother-in-law taught me the word for the slaw and I was excited to whip out my new vocab word at the table. So, when the food was being served I asked for host mom to pass me the 'hren'. She looked at me taken aback by me request. Host sister and her husband burst into laughter. 'No, Britt you want 'hran'.' 'Why, what did I say?' 'You asked host mom to give you the shit.' ...Thanks a lot host bro. Some shots of cognac later and all was forgiven.

The day was spent visiting family all around town and continuing to fill our already stuffed stomachs and fuzzy minds. You have to love Easter in the 'Dova.

Next weekend? Memorial Easter!

Until then, peace!

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