Mileștii Mici Winery

This past Saturday a group of volunteers set out for a tour of the famous Mileștii Mici wine cellars. The cellar is the largest in the world with over 250 kilometers of underground roads and is even highlighted in the Guinness book of records.

So, a van full of volunteers headed out to see the underground tunnels in a full tour and tasting. When we arrived at the cellars we were told that since it was Saturday the tour wouldn't be the price we had been quoted but instead more expensive for a tour with no tasting. We all begrudgingly agreed to go on the tour... we had gotten that far, after all. So, we payed the extra cost, hopped back in the rented van, and headed into the cellars.

The tour lasted just under an hour. Taking us on the underground streets named after different wines of the region. We saw the 'underground waterfall' that had been discovered when digging in the lime stone many years earlier. We passed barrel after barrel of wine, and were able to get out of the van to view the famous collection of  bottled wine held in the deepest part of the cellars. We then visited the tasting room, filled with other parties who had decided to pay the fee for the wine tasting and meal.

It was a tease to see everyone drinking the wine, but we had all decided we would do our own tasting later that day so we left the music filled room knowing we would get our tasting eventually. We left the cellars and took pictures at the ornate wine fountains adorned at the front of the cellars before we headed back into Chisinau.

We were dropped at the Mileștii Mici wine bar in Chisinau and sat down to a long table ordering multiple liters of wine for our own 'tasting'. We were all quite happy with our decision as we were able to both enjoy a considerable amount of wine at a much more reasonable price. We were all proud of our ability to 'out-smart' the system.

The rest of the day unfolded with us attending the beer festival taking place in the center of the city and the rest was history.

Happy Hump Day from Moldova!

Peace

Brining the District of Nisporeni into the 21st Century: Computers and the Local Government

Well, with just under two months left I have started to work on wrapping up my projects. And, I am happy to report that I have FINALLY finished up the computer project that I have been working on for over a year. The idea for the project came to me from a previous volunteer who lived in the district and explained the situation to me. I learned from him that there were many mayors offices in our district that didn't have a computer in their office. It was hard for me to believe at first, how could a district in Moldova (a country that prides itself on excellent internet accessibility) still have local government offices working without a computer.

So, from that day forward I began the long process of identifying the offices without a computer. The list turned up with 10 offices of the 23 offices didn't have a computer. This led me to my second step. Finding computers. This was a long and arduous process. From writing grants, to having donors fall through, to disagreements between myself and my non-profit partners.

Finally, after I had nearly given up all hope on seeing this project through to fruition I revived an email telling me that there were second-hand computers available through a major office in Chisinau that would be donated to project without a fee, if I could find transport to retrieve said computers. After a few phone calls the project was 'back on' and pick-ups were being arranged.

After we had received the computers we were alerted to the next hurtle. The computers were not equipped with hard drives or RAM. Now, I knew going in we would need to find new hard drives so we asked each office receiving a computer to pitch in order to cover the price of the hardware. I didn't realize that this sum they had contributed needed to somehow expand to cover the cost of RAM, installation fees, plug convertors, and cables. This all was going to be more of a challenge than my for a mere dusting of the monitors.

The next step was to find out where to buy the needed parts (in case you didn't know RAM is a temperamental little b;#<h). So, the hunt was on. After a couple months at a stand still I was getting antsy to get this resolved and the daily visits we were receiving from the mayors who had been promised a computer was becoming harder and harder to explain. Finally, after an exasperated conversation with my host mom she gave me the phone number of a local computer repair specialist in town. I reluctantly went into his shop the following morning expecting to hear the usual 'I can't help you' response. But, instead he said 'Sure, I will come by later today to check them out'.

Sure enough, he looked over all the computers and was happy to report that they all would work if he ordered the needed parts. YES! This was the news I had been waiting for, for months. Later that day he sent me over a price quote on how much the work would cost. We were 4000 lei short. How would we be able to finish this thing if we couldn't pay? After long discussions with all of the mayors, explaining the situation we were able to get them all to contribute a bit more for their computer. This contribution, paired with financial support from the head of the NGO and a generous citizen in the capital allowed us to finally finish refurbishing the computers.

Pick-up of the computers happened quickly after the computers had finally been prepared. I don't know who was happier; the mayors receiving a computer for their office or me seeing the computers leaving mine.

Now it was time to organize the second half of the project. Training the mayors and their staff on how to use their new technology. We identified a computer teacher at the local school and chose a date that would allow us use of the computer lab (over a school break).

The morning of the training I arrived at the school. I wanted to speak with the instructor before the workshop began to make sure he was on-board with the agenda. I was disgruntled when I arrived at the school and the only other person there was a young woman who was the representative sent from her village. 'Where is the mayor?' I asked. 'He won't be coming. They sent me in his place.' ... I'd like to take this opportunity to explain that we had the mayors sign multiple contracts stating that they would be receiving their computers contingent on their attendance at the workshop.

So, not only was I standing in the abandoned school five minutes before the workshop without an instructor, but the one person that was their to attend the workshop had been sent because the mayor was 'too busy' to bother to show up to the workshop that he had agreed to attending. Needless to say I was not a very happy volunteer in that moment. Finally, five minutes after the workshop was supposed to begin the instructor rolled in. An older man, tall and broad. It was clear he had been doing this for awhile, especially when I asked him if he had looked at the agenda and if he had any questions his response 'I have been doing this for over 30 years. I know what I am doing.' 'Uh, oh alright well I just thought I would check.' 'No, I have go this. Also, we will have a break every hour.' ...I later learned that the breaks were because he smokes like a chimney.

He was a loud and aggressive teacher. But, he was good. He was very good. He used stories that made it easy to understand information that could easily become complicated. It reminded me of the saying 'If you can't explain it simply you don't know it well enough'. Well, he could explain it simply, and before I knew it nine of the ten mayors offices had arrived and everyone was entranced by the boisterous professor at the front of the room. 

At the end of the workshop I felt a sense of relief. I did it. It was over. And, though none of the mayors came up and thanked me for helping them equip their office with a computer I would like to think that every once in awhile when they send a work-related email or electronically store their files they will think of that annoying American that made them wait months for their computer. I realize this is a romanticized viewpoint, but I am happy to report that even after two years of being a committed and often frustrated peace corps volunteer I haven't lost the little optimist inside me.

All for now,
Peace

Memorial Easter: Paște Blajinilor

This past weekend we celebrated memorial Easter here in Moldova. Memorial Easter is my favorite holiday that we celebrate here in Moldova because it is unlike any holiday we have back home. The holiday falls on the weekend after Orthodox Easter.

Basically everyone goes to the cemetery where their loved ones are buried and enjoy fellowship with their passed family members. At first I was slightly put off by the idea of sitting around drinking and eating in a cemetery but, the more I was able to understand the symbolism of the holiday the more I was able to appreciate how special this holiday is.

My host family and I packed up the car with food, flowers, house wine, and candles. We headed off to the cemetery in Iurceni where my host mom grew up and where her relatives were laid to rest. The day starts off with everyone circled around the local priest where a short blessing takes place, wine and food is blessed and chanting is heard throughout the hill-side cemetery. This cemetery is unique in that it is hundreds of years old. Now closed to new burials it full of character. Trees have grown up around the hill-side and crosses are so close that they create arches that one must duck under to pass through. Birds are heard singing in the trees and wind lightly blows through the leafy branches.

Tables are built next to grave sites in Moldova for this very holiday. We all come prepared with table clothes and blankets for the long wooden benches that have seen the elements during the winter months. After the opening service everyone returns to their family plot where they adorn their loved ones plot with offerings of food, towels, mugs, candles, and a sprinkling of blessed wine. The feast then begins.

Setting up happens quickly. Plates are already prepared and bags are quickly emptied out onto the table. Relatives exchange braided bread, chocolates, towels, dishes, and candles in honor of passed family members. Children come along with shopping bags and much like 'trick-or-treating' in the US, they say 'Christ has risen', and everyone at the table hands over candies and painted eggs, filling their bags with treats for later.

Each family member then goes around the table with a bottle of house wine and a glass and makes toasts to their lost loved ones. Everyone receiving the wine is expected to wish the person a peaceful rest in heaven, and take the poured house wine. After ....an undetermined amount of house wine was consumed... I decided I too wanted to partake in this tradition. I stood up with a bottle of house wine and proceeded to circle the table in honor of 'Sfintul Valarea' or 'Saint Valarie'. It was a special moment to be able to hear everyone wish my mom blessings. One of my host aunts made me tear up telling me that my mom was my angel and that she was taking care of me from heaven. These are the moments I will remember from my Peace Corps service for the rest of my life.

The same aunt later told me that I needed to marry another Moldovan and stay here. She was disappointed when I told her I already had a man in my life. But, she was happy to hear that he too had lived in Moldova and also knew Romanian. She was so pleased by this that she told me that I should marry him, return to Moldova, and she would give me her house. I was flattered by her kindness but told her I would probably be staying in the US so I could be closer to my family. She just smiled and nodded. It's amazing how generous and loving the people of Moldova are... I don't think this will ever cease to amaze me.

It was a beautiful holiday, my favorite in Moldova.

Peace to you on this rainy Tuesday!

Russian Orthodox Easter

This past weekend, we in Moldova, celebrated Easter. Easter is the biggest holiday celebrated during the year over here in this neck of the woods. And, I don't think anyone would argue that Moldovans know how to party. The preparations begin well in advance with the annual spring cleaning. Having now experienced spring cleaning two years in a row I can say that I have gotten a complete education on what it means for a house to be celan. Every surface of the house gets a complete scrub down, including the ceiling, the outdoor car park, curtains get washed and ironed and, all the cupboards get emptied and cleaned. This process usually takes about a week... that's not including prepping the garden, cleaning and re-painting the chicken cope and the outhouse. Like I said, it's a process. All of this gets completed before the big weekend.

Saturday is spent cooking up delicious foods, meats, cheeses, and veggies...and of course the traditional rooster jello. The forty days leading up to Easter disciplined followers take part in a fully vegan diet. So, preparing all of those delicious foods and having to wait until the following day to eat them is quite a test (well, for them, not for me... I ate whatever I wanted). On a fun note, I know I am now truly a part of the family because host mom went out of her way to prepare all dishes with both pork and chicken (because I don't eat pork). It was a full day of cooking but, the day doesn't stop there.

Saturday night everyone heads off to the church for an evening of worship. We left the house around 11pm driving to a big monastery a half hour from the house. Hîncu is a large beautiful monastery where hundreds of worshipers gather to celebrate the holiday.

The service is unlike anything I have attended in the US. At midnight the church bishop and priests exit the church and are greeted by the crowd of followers. Candle light illuminates the darkness. The priests pass off their candle light to the people in attendance, who than pass off the light to each other. the bishop and his buddies then lead the group around the outside of the church abunch of times before they enter the church once again. Everyone crams in and so begins the chanting and singing 'Christ has risen' 'He has risen'... this goes on until about 4am. At 4am the bishop exits the church, this time instead of circling the church he blesses all the poeple and their offerings with holy water. After getting splashed with holy water everyone makes a mad dash back to their cars and home for an early morning feast.

After a couple of hours of sleep it was time to wake-up for another full day of partying. One of my favorite dishes served during Easter is a beet and horseradish slaw, it adds a unique kick to the food. My host brother-in-law taught me the word for the slaw and I was excited to whip out my new vocab word at the table. So, when the food was being served I asked for host mom to pass me the 'hren'. She looked at me taken aback by me request. Host sister and her husband burst into laughter. 'No, Britt you want 'hran'.' 'Why, what did I say?' 'You asked host mom to give you the shit.' ...Thanks a lot host bro. Some shots of cognac later and all was forgiven.

The day was spent visiting family all around town and continuing to fill our already stuffed stomachs and fuzzy minds. You have to love Easter in the 'Dova.

Next weekend? Memorial Easter!

Until then, peace!