Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Memorial Easter: Paște Blajinilor

This past weekend we celebrated memorial Easter here in Moldova. Memorial Easter is my favorite holiday that we celebrate here in Moldova because it is unlike any holiday we have back home. The holiday falls on the weekend after Orthodox Easter.

Basically everyone goes to the cemetery where their loved ones are buried and enjoy fellowship with their passed family members. At first I was slightly put off by the idea of sitting around drinking and eating in a cemetery but, the more I was able to understand the symbolism of the holiday the more I was able to appreciate how special this holiday is.

My host family and I packed up the car with food, flowers, house wine, and candles. We headed off to the cemetery in Iurceni where my host mom grew up and where her relatives were laid to rest. The day starts off with everyone circled around the local priest where a short blessing takes place, wine and food is blessed and chanting is heard throughout the hill-side cemetery. This cemetery is unique in that it is hundreds of years old. Now closed to new burials it full of character. Trees have grown up around the hill-side and crosses are so close that they create arches that one must duck under to pass through. Birds are heard singing in the trees and wind lightly blows through the leafy branches.

Tables are built next to grave sites in Moldova for this very holiday. We all come prepared with table clothes and blankets for the long wooden benches that have seen the elements during the winter months. After the opening service everyone returns to their family plot where they adorn their loved ones plot with offerings of food, towels, mugs, candles, and a sprinkling of blessed wine. The feast then begins.

Setting up happens quickly. Plates are already prepared and bags are quickly emptied out onto the table. Relatives exchange braided bread, chocolates, towels, dishes, and candles in honor of passed family members. Children come along with shopping bags and much like 'trick-or-treating' in the US, they say 'Christ has risen', and everyone at the table hands over candies and painted eggs, filling their bags with treats for later.

Each family member then goes around the table with a bottle of house wine and a glass and makes toasts to their lost loved ones. Everyone receiving the wine is expected to wish the person a peaceful rest in heaven, and take the poured house wine. After ....an undetermined amount of house wine was consumed... I decided I too wanted to partake in this tradition. I stood up with a bottle of house wine and proceeded to circle the table in honor of 'Sfintul Valarea' or 'Saint Valarie'. It was a special moment to be able to hear everyone wish my mom blessings. One of my host aunts made me tear up telling me that my mom was my angel and that she was taking care of me from heaven. These are the moments I will remember from my Peace Corps service for the rest of my life.

The same aunt later told me that I needed to marry another Moldovan and stay here. She was disappointed when I told her I already had a man in my life. But, she was happy to hear that he too had lived in Moldova and also knew Romanian. She was so pleased by this that she told me that I should marry him, return to Moldova, and she would give me her house. I was flattered by her kindness but told her I would probably be staying in the US so I could be closer to my family. She just smiled and nodded. It's amazing how generous and loving the people of Moldova are... I don't think this will ever cease to amaze me.

It was a beautiful holiday, my favorite in Moldova.

Peace to you on this rainy Tuesday!

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