Sunday, February 9, 2014

This week sure has been something.


I’ve been ruminating over this blog post for several weeks now. It seems that inexplicably, the moment I feel definitively on one track of mind my thoughts become immediately derailed. I pranced into this semester with a slight bounce to my step, feeling quite rejuvenated and ready to take on the world. Three weeks later classes have finally started and if my mind were a room it would most closely resemble the wardrobe from the Chronicles of Narnia. I cannot tell you where you might end up if you meander inside. So below is an offering of my initial feelings on this term, despite the fact that most much of what I wrote about feeling at ease got sucked up into a cyclone and spat out rather frivolously. Nevertheless, Welcome Aboard the Pam Express.

A breath of fresh air

I think one of the biggest changes I’ve seen within myself is how utterly patient I’ve become.  Things happen when they happen, and I’ve moved past the notion that force will get you there faster. I suppose you could say I’ve reached a new state of “Zen”, where no matter what situation I find myself in, I easily brush off my shoulders, there’s nothing treacherous about things not working out exactly as you planned, if anything it enables more room for creativity, and influence to come from any number of sources… which in a brief political analysis would probably make the process and execution far more “democratic” (whatever that means anymore). 

While time is still flying at the speed of light, I no longer have this relentless feeling that I’m being rushed. There’s a running joke amongst the volunteers about the difference between “Now” and “Now Now”, something that emerged as a distinction of time in Swazi Culture. In the context here, “now” tends to usually mean within the next couple of hours (just like “soon” is often 20+ minutes), whereas “now now” is as close to “immediately” as you’re most likely going to come. While it might not seem like a pertinent distinction to make…  it is a necessary point of clarification when making plans, and my new method of time management/prioritizing.  For example, by simply asking myself “what really needs to happen now now?” My brainwaves translate that into immediate needs, vs. things that wouldn’t really change if I worked on them any sooner.  Which of course, tends to reduce stress levels, but has not prevented my new nickname amongst the teachers at my school, which I’m sure to most of you, dear readers, would not come as a shock. During week #2 of our Development Plan process… my (one may say) strong work ethic, and desire to maintain focus on one particular topic has led me to be known as a “workaholic” amongst the staff. Although it’s sort of a cringe-worthy truth, in this particular setting I can’t help but get the impression that it’s a compliment and has set the tone for expectations around some of the areas I am working in, and is not something I feel like I need to apologize for, or try to alter.

I’ve often been accused of taking things too seriously (and honestly, still am not entirely convinced that that’s a bad thing) but I will admit that it puts me at odds with the expectations I hold for myself, and those held by others. Ultimately, it comes down to acknowledging that everyone places varying degrees of priority on the same (or different) things.  I’ve spent a lot of time contemplating whether or not privilege influences the order that certain “priorities” can take, and what that means in terms of “development[1]” work. I guess one could relate this a little to Maslow’s hierarchy of needs… but I think that refusing to acknowledge the privilege you might bring to your work outside of your particular cultural context can be a real hindrance, especially in learning to empathize with those you’re working with in terms of learning to understand how access to different resources and separate life experiences can affect someone’s approach to life (and thus their priorities).  Welcome to my mind, please, step into my office.

After spending several weeks and many relatively productive hours it was time to introduce the Development Plan to the first set of our stakeholders… the teachers. I was really nervous for this. Make Nelsiwe and I agreed that it was necessary that the teachers feel that they have ownership over the plan in order for them to want to support it’s implementation, and in my eyes, it was asking them to do a lot more work. We spent two days discussing it.  I was really excited by the discussions the teachers had around the Development Plan, they shared some really good ideas, and it was rejuvenating to hear them discuss the various topics that they are so passionate about. It made me feel really good about this school year, and that despite feeling totally wiped out from last week, like there’s going to be a lot of positive change this year. 

I might have mentioned that I had started a Student Council at the end of last term. Right now it’s a collection of students in the 6th and 7th grade. However, the plan is to include students from the 5th and 4th grades as well, once we get more established. The idea was to not only train the students in leadership, teamwork, public speaking and other organizational skills, but also to introduce the students’ voices into the activities and programming done at the school. My heart pretty much burst with pride, when after a meeting on Thursday, the Pres. and VP met with the Head Teacher to discuss some of their concerns and have their responsibilities realized. It was really wonderful to see them receive such encouragement from the HT, and for them to feel like their concerns matter. Not only that, but the HT also advocated for them to be part of the Development Plan.  This council is definitely a work in progress, and a massive learning experience (… for me, perhaps more than the students…) but it’s nice to see the potential that it has. 

I was really anxious that my SSL (Swazi Sign Language) would have me looking like I was constantly in a flourish of interpretive dance due to the 7 week break that just sort of dissipated into thin air, but that was surprisingly not the case. I found myself interpreting during one of the staff meetings last week, and not only surprised myself, but all of the teachers too. Even the students have commented that it’s improved a lot, which is nice. Some days it’s really crucial to focus little things like that that make me proud. Otherwise it’s just as easy to focus on the things that fill you with the kind of dread that Frodo and Sam felt when they were about to trudge their way up Mount Doom. (I mean… the sun already makes it feel like I’m living in fire).

This past week was also emotionally draining for reasons I’d rather not divulge on such an open and public forum, but I will say it has offered incredible insight, and was a good catalyst for reflection on my goals and purposes here.  It can be far to easy to get overwhelmed by the reality of any job; I am but one piece in a much larger system. Eish. That sure is stifling, and makes a person sort of want to crawl beneath the covers for a while.  It’s about this point where I’m like LOLOLOL…qualifications? Somehow I manage to maintain relative confidence in my work here despite “faking it til I make” about 90% of the time.  Which puts an intriguing twist on the fact that I am viewed as a professional. But this means that I have faced less barriers in terms of putting myself out there, learning new things, and experiencing epic proportions of personal growth. I think if anything it expands on maybe a rather narrow understanding of what “professional” work looks like.  But anyways.

I think I’ll close with a quotation passed on to me from another volunteer:

The way of the Warrior/Leader: Show up and choose to be present
The way of the Healer: Pay attention to what has heart and meaning
The way of the Visionary: Tell the truth without blame or judgment (speak your truth)
The way of the Teacher: Be open to outcome, not attached to outcome

And my own addition…
The way of the Peace Corps Volunteer: Demand no more of others than you do of yourself


[1]I honestly rather loathe this descriptor. I get it, technically I am indeed involved in this so-called development work… however, I don’t understand why the label is associated with work in some areas of the globe and not in others... “develop” means to “grow or cause to grow and become more mature, advanced, or elaborate”… And in that sense, things are only (if ever) temporarily “developed”, but in most cases, achieving a new stage or level only opens the doors for future embellishments.  I’d like to strongly argue that it would be an awful thing to be “fully developed”, and I’m not sure that’s what one should set out to achieve. Bongiwe used “Hegel” it is super effective.

Sunday, January 12, 2014

If ever I needed a reminder for why I am here


It was visible in the experiences of this past week. 

I’m now beginning my last week of the break I thought would never end. Two Saturdays ago I attended the wedding of one of the teachers at my school. It was beautiful. I carpooled down towards Matata with several of the teachers from my school. Our location couldn’t be found on a map. Somewhere in the south-eastern corner of Swaziland amidst the plethora of Aloe plants, was a blue and white festival tent. The ground had been coated by strips of white paper that gave off the illusion that we were floating on a cloud, and despite the inexcusable heat, it was a pleasant event. I really enjoyed sitting at the table with the teachers, and socializing with them outside the school setting. They are truly beautiful people. The type of wedding I attended is referred to as a “White Wedding” that has more of a Western flare to it, and is much different than the traditional Swazi wedding. All the same, it still had it’s own flavor to it. A smile burst across my face when a conga line erupted in the aisle while we were waiting for the ceremony to begin, and it stayed there as the wedding party danced their way to the front of the tent.  I think it cemented the notion that I live here now, (I know I keep saying this… but I have to keep reminding myself that this is my life… because it’s still so unbelievable).

As a volunteer, it’s hard to forget that our work is only temporary, and that we’re not permanent fixtures in our communities, presented simply as catalysts for change. At the same time, I’ve been reflecting on this aspect of our service, because in truth, I feel like in general, the expectations for our generation have changed in that it is no longer expected of us to remain in the same place for our entire careers.  To each their own, but I wonder if it would not be beneficial to frame every new job, or experience as a short-term sequence in a much larger series of events, rather than placing emphasis on labeling something as “The” anything. Yes, I suppose I would then be living in a huge cloud of ambiguity, but at the same time, I’d hope that I would approach everything I do with as much consideration for the long-term effects of my involvement and re-evaluate what sustainability means in that particular context. I feel like if something is not seen as the culminating end point in and intense journey, than it is merely viewed as an obstacle, rather than a crucial learning experience necessary for further advancement. Perhaps at this point your eyes have begun to glaze over. Bear with me. What I’m trying to get at is how my work as a volunteer has reminded me that in most cases, the process is more important than the result. “Well, duhhh, Pam”, you’re probably thinking. And that’s fine. I can just sense an attitudinal shift as I come to the lovely conclusion that this experience (… my experience) is not in fact all about me. *Cue celebratory confetti canons* (how’s that for an alliteration?)

This past week I found myself once again involved in a training at IDM (my first home in Swaziland… a place that sparks both feelings of sentimentality and comfort, as well as full-body cringes and a tired mind when I think about how much time I’ve spent at this facility). 

As I mentioned a while back, I am a co-director for a program we have here called GLOW (Girl’s Leading Our World), and what this means is that next year I will be one of several PCVs in charge of organizing a week-long girl’s empowerment camp, as well as overseeing the development of various GLOW clubs, and providing training for counselors.  This particular training was the Training of Trainers or T.O.T. Although I am not really involved in the planning and execution of this year’s camp, myself along with the other co-director and the director for my group were invited to observe and help out with T.O.T. It was an incredible week. 

The training involved over 60 women, (a combination of both Swazis and PCVs) and was a crash course in the activities that go on at camp, and introducing the counselors to what GLOW is, and depicting all of it’s potential. The sessions covered included nutrition, providing counseling, sexual reproductive health, and healthy relationships, facilitation, goal setting, and planning (fun) activities. Having no idea really what this training was going to be like, it is safe to say I was thoroughly impressed with the work my fellow PCVs had put into making it a success, as well as inspired I felt by the Swazi women present as well. I was touched by their openness, dedication, and caring hearts, and I get goosebumps just thinking about the positive influence they are going to have on the girls in their communities. It was amazing to see the women rally behind topics that they felt so passionate about, and within that, I saw a glimmer of what the future of Swaziland looks like, and it is beautifully exciting.  Our last night concluded with a Talent Show, which without a doubt is my all-time favorite memory here thus far.  Not only because it was filled with side-splitting laughter, but because I felt a strong sense of gratitude for being apart of this experience, and being involved with such an incredible organization.  It also made me feel like I was at camp again, and like that person I wasn’t sure I had managed to bring with me. Which is pretty darn comforting. All I know is that I am going to tuck away this past week and keep it safely in my pocket, to draw upon if I am having those infamous REALLY bad days.

After T.O.T. I headed down to Candyland with Zinhle to spend the weekend in her community.  The ride was a lot less scarring than my first trip, despite the brutal heat (did I mention it’s HOT?). But I think I will leave that for another day, as tomorrow is Monday and I’ve got meetings to prepare for and a school development plan to write…

So, in the lyrical styling of Ke$ha, It’s going down, I’m yelling “timber!” You better move, you better dance.*

*Some one please explain this song to me. 

Tuesday, December 31, 2013

I think I love board games more than most people


And that’s what compelled me to melt into a puddle in Shopprite when I spotted a South African version of “Monopoly”.  I was roaming around Siteki with Futhi, another volunteer, and having failed to retrieve money from the ATM (ohh that’s right…  it was the end of the month), so I had very limited dolla dolla bills. I turned to Futhi and blurted out “would it be stupid if I bought this?” Without a hint of judgment, she said “go for it” (or something along those lines… this was in October… and hey! This is my reality!) so I picked a box off the shelf, paused momentarily to smile appreciatively at the giant teddy bears strategically placed next to the “monopoly” boards, and bounced my way to the check-out line. Now. Would the card machine work? AND IT DID. And it hasn’t worked since. But that’s beside the point. I proceeded to prance around Siteki hugging the game like it was my most prized possession much to the amusement of random passersby.  As I strolled through the bomake market I bumped into my friend Mavis, and this was when I promised, one Saturday during the break to play monopoly with her… fast forward a few weeks. 

It was hot, and it took a lot of energy to drag myself out of the strangely climate-controlled house that I currently reside in, but the guilt of putting off playing monopoly overcame my survival instincts to remain in doors. So I packed up the game, wrapped myself in a lihiya, and ventured out into the great unknown (the amount of roosters dotting the path makes it a perilous journey).  As I strolled through the market, greeting the various bomake (oh, the art of schmoozing), I approached Mavis’ stall only to find her a little frazzled. “Oh Bongiwe! I was late coming back from Manzini, I am still very busy”. Two thoughts ran through my head simultaneously. Well… that’s not the end of the world and “Maybe I could help?is what blurted from my lips. She hesitated… “but you don’t know how…” My mind was made up, so I persisted… “but Mavis, you could teach me” and that was that. She moved a stool next to her chair where she was packaging green peppers. She gave me a brief tutorial and then presented me with a box of apples.  How hard could this be? Well, it wasn’t necessarily difficult, but I had certain standards to uphold… the apples had to be stacked a certain way, the plastic baggies functioning more like cling-wrap, and I had to fit between 4 and 6 apples in the same size bag. Magic. After a little while it became much easier, and it was really fun to be sitting behind the stall with Mavis packaging up emaveg and emafruits.  Mavis is well known in the market, and several people came up asking her what she was doing “Wentani lapho Mavis” and she would proudly respond “Ngipakgisha na Bongiwe” (I am packaging with Bongiwe).

Something that’s changed in the past month or so is the fact that acquaintances are becoming friends, and I feel like I can trust more people that previously made me wary. I sort of left PST feeling like I’d never make any Swazi friends, or that I’d always be seen as someone who has things of material value, rather than as a person. It was easy to feel guarded when those assumptions were supported by strangers frequently stating “give me money” or “please support”.  I think that’s why sometimes I feel short of patience when I go into town, because I know that those are conversations I am going to have to navigate. However, sitting in the bomake market with Mavis made me feel like I belonged, like I was a part of the community, and that I had more value than whatever items I squished into a suitcase and overly large backpack when I came here. Often, that bubble bursts when I least expect it.  Sometimes I’ll be having really nice conversations with someone on a kombi, or walking through town. Just when I’m feeling like I am being seen as myself, I get the kiss of death “can you give me 5 rand?”  I hate that that is always at the back of my mind… why often I feel like “why bother greeting this person” because I feel like we’re a hop skip and a jump from the real goal of any conversation… But that’s not fair. And that’s what Mavis’ friendship reminds me. That people can be friendly and supportive, and mean it, not with some hope of gaining something other than a good laugh and a pleasant conversation. It’s important to know that, because I think when I lose that understanding I feel lonely here.  I think that was one of the nicest things about that hot afternoon in the market, I decided to let my guard down, and I wasn’t disappointed.  And I was able to transcend the surface-level communication that I really loathe… and that easily frustrates me. I learned more about Mavis, how important Monopoly actually is to her… (she used to play it with her sister who has passed away), that she’s a hard worker, and I felt like a person. So I came out of this experience with some restored faith in my experience here, a new skill in packaging fruit, and feeling like I had a friend.  Not a bad afternoon at all. 

On a completely unrelated note… Sanelesiwe’s homestead has a mango tree(s?) and she promised to bring me back mangoes after she visited home… What I didn’t realize is that that meant I would receive a 10 liter-bucket full… So with great internal amusement… and personal pride (or something…) I’d like to announce that I successfully ate (with a little help from my friends) 79 mangoes in a week. Yep. 79 mangoes.  I didn’t quite pull a bubba-gump shrimp… (Mango curry, mango custard, fried mango, steamed mango, frozen mango, mango smoothies…) but I definitely made good use of them, and didn’t turn orange. So I’d say that’s a success.

In other news I am super excited that my friend Sarah will be visiting me in March… which is… I have no words. I am also not sure if I should be terrified because it’ll be interesting to see two worlds collide… nah. It’s going to be awesome! I cannot wait to troll the countryside with her.  And eat mangoes. Obviously.

Well, I’m going to leave it at that.

Sala Kahle.

Sunday, December 8, 2013

Wishing you could help dreams come true?

I wouldn't normally use this as a means of advertising so explicitly... but this is a really important project that many of my fellow PCVs are working extremely hard on, so I thought it would be nice to support their efforts... especially since you all know how much I love the library at my school...hehehe... But in all seriousness, our pal Arthur (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JlCm7-Y1wtk) knows that having fun isn't hard when you've got a library card... So, if you're not hating me for getting that song stuck in your head, help bring the fun to Swaziland by donating to our "Books for Swaziland Project". PCVs will be collaborating with schools in their communities to start up and bring books to 30 libraries in 2014!

Just follow this link, and the rest is easy!  https://donate.peacecorps.gov/index.cfm?shell=donate.contribute.projDetail&projdesc=14-645-001

Eating Mangos in Hhohho



You can really squeeze a lot in a week here.  

The adventure started last Thursday when Lomaswazi and I departed from my school to catch a khumbi to Mbabane. Our destination? The country director’s house. What was guiding us there? The aroma of delicious food.  Although we weren’t gathering strictly for our homeland’s festivities… the following day would also sponsor an “AllVol” event where it would be the first time that all G10 and G11 volunteers would sit in the same room together for professional reasons.  It was interesting to see how our two group dynamics intermeshed…and they didn’t clash like I thought they would.  The main point for this gathering was to discuss the new format for the VRF (Vacuous Rabble Forum)… er… I mean… Volunteer Reporting Form.  You know you’re an MI student when… you get really excited to partake in Monitoring and Evaluation, followed by a statistical analysis of the data you’ve collected… But in all seriousness, the new VRF mechanism is super cool, and I am actually *nerd alert* super excited to begin filling it out. But we’ll see when I actually sit down in January and begin scrutinizing my past six months here. 

I ventured home on Friday (after walking through an amazingly well-stocked grocery store… with cream cheese, curry paste, and many other magical things) with Thandolewethu the volunteer at the High School for the Deaf.  It was a nice trip home, and we got to talk about our experiences at the schools, and brainstorm a little bit about uniting our communities.  Although there are many aspects that are similar between our schools, we are living very different experiences.  For one thing, she has ¼ the number of students at her school than mine.  So it’s just nice to exchange stories and see what else is going on.  I won’t really go into the history of the schools, but it would be amazing if by the time we both fly home to ‘Murica they were working together. 

On Saturday, I attended Sanelisiwe’s daugther’s Pre-School Graduation. It was probably one of the top ten most adorable things I have ever seen AND there was cake.  It was fun to go and support her and act as a photographer for the afternoon.  It was pretty much a little showcase where the students read poems, sang songs, and there were even costumes.  Also, attending something like that made me feel like I was actually part of a family, and of the community, which was a really nice feeling. 

I had spent the morning hanging out with the ten or so students who had yet to be picked up by a responsible adult.  It reminded me yet again of being a camp counselor… waiting with the campers who’s parents had spaced about the pick-up time. I broke out the checkerboard and tried to keep them amused while they waited hopefully, not entirely sure if anyone was even on their way.  I think that’s been one of the hardest things to adjust to… the different role of the parents, or the absence of parents (for one of many reasons… the country has a saddening percentage of Orphans and Vulnerable Children… OVCs).  The supervision is also something that always catches me off guard.  Save for the kitchen staff who remained to feed the students breakfast and lunch, none of the teachers were there to ensure that the students were collected, or even picked up by the right people. I am still unsure if I should feel encouraged by this, or anxious. 

Sunday meant it was time to head back towards Matsapha. I was happy to learn that Sanelesiwe was also traveling to Manzini, so we got to ride a kombi together.  I then met up with Thandolewethu in Manzini. We had planned to go to the bomake market and buy some crafty holiday presents. Although not all of the stands were open (it was afterall Sunday), but it was actually quite pleasant. We were the only shoppers strolling through, and the usual hustle-and-bustle was not present, so I felt like I could take my time to walk around and not have to simultaneously navigate through hoards of people. I spoke with a few of the craftspeople in hopes that they would be willing to come to my school to teach some of the students their trade. One man who made drums, and incredible paintings offered, so hopefully that’s something that can be solidified in the future. 

Thandolewethu and I then set off for Matsapha, in a sense our home-away-from-site.  This time, as mentioned before, our training would include program design and project management with a counterpart from our community… This meant that we anxiously paced around the corridors of IDM as we waited for them to arrive… we all had a not-so-secret fear that we would be jilted and have to go back home. Fortunately, only two PCVs got stood up, but have the opportunity to attend the training again in February. (See… our fears were totally real). This was by far my favorite training since being here. It was incredible to be able to sit down with our counterparts, brainstorm a vision for our community, and address the challenges we think our community faces, and then work to devise a plan of how to overcome those challenges. It was just amazing to have the time to go through that process, and in relative detail.  I had brought Nosipho, a teacher I have been working on the Sign Language Book with.  It was neat to see that we both felt that in order to help our community grow, we needed to address the lack of sign fluency amongst teachers and students, and develop a “staff development plan”.  I am very excited to begin working on this new project (one, interestingly, that I had hoped would happen… but had kind of given up on the idea… look how life works some times!).  The workshop really rejuvenated me after a busy and stressful end of the term, and rekindled my hope and faith in those I am working with that we can truly achieve a common goal.  Things are magical falling into place, and it is beautiful… now we just have to wait and see. 

At the end of the workshop I traveled with Zinhle back to Manzini, where we met Tambile, a volunteer who will be attending the same workshop only in February.  We were going to spend the night at her homestead.  The drive to her site was incredible. We passed the biggest lake in Swaziland, it the landscape was a 1,000 shades of green.  I always get a twinge of sadness when I visit another volunteer and see their homesteads and observe their interactions with their families. While I sort of do have my own kind of homestead here, it’s crazy how different their experiences are from mine. It makes me feel like I live in a city… (which is not entirely false…), but I’ve always been a country mouse, so it’s strange.  Tambile lives in the foothills of some mountains in the Hhohho region of Swaziland.  The walk to her site was stunning, and her homestead was cozy.  A sisi offered to get us some mangos so we meandered over to the tree and gathered at least 30 mangoza.  We then went to the “little kitchen”, a roundevel (…spelling?) with a thatched roof, seated ourselves on grassmats and forgot to worry about juice dripping down our chins or the uncomfortable feeling of mango-strings in-between our teeth.  We then got to keep a ton of mangos, which was awesome… I’ve been eating like 3 a day… so satisfying.  It was a really nice visit, and we had delicious grilled cheese for lunch. Tambile’s hut is super comfy, and I enjoyed swinging in a hammock for a good chunk of time.  I think I know where I am going to spend some of my break… haha

Although kombis and public transport in general tend to be an exhausting experience… I really love having the opportunity to see how this country transforms from winter to summer… from desert to tropical oasis.  It’s even more exhilarating when for a second I comprehend the fact that this is my home. This, coupled with the fact that I feel like I have finally found my footing in terms of transitioning from being a clumsy mlungu to a volunteer/professional is pretty empowering. 

And with that, here are some parting words of wisdom from my counterpart, Nosipho. “Dig deep into your brain box… it can’t be empty.”

Saturday, December 7, 2013

“Angifuni”: A How-to Guide for those persistent marriage proposals


This is going to be a several part series...
 
Sometimes it takes a lot for me to muster up the energy to meander into town…only a few things really push my need to go more than twice a week… those being the acknowledgement of having not enough of the right ingredients for “no bakes” and having no food in general once I’ve exhausted all of my leftovers and ate a meal that could have been a prize winner in “Chopped” for creatively throwing ingredients together.  This isn’t because town is miles away. Comparatively, I probably walk less than most other volunteers, nor do I have the task of hulling water from a borehole or a river. It’s not even the extreme heat… living on a plateau still means that summer is blazing hot… but it also means that I am graced with the soft breezes of the Moz. Ocean.  No, it’s the fact that I never know what conversations I’ll have, or people I’ll meet in my hour or so in town.  This isn’t so much a reflection on the characters of men (or people) in this country so much as it is merely a narration of some of the more trying experiences I’ve had here in terms of testing my patience, or requiring me to be good-humored more than is humanly possible.  For the most part, I honestly think the comments are the basis of a joke… “I wonder how she’ll react” sort of provocation. There’s only been a couple instances where I felt like it was really harassment.  But I thought it would be funny to compile a list of responses I’ve come up with, or have heard from other volunteers when “angifuni” (I don’t want) just isn’t enough. 

1.     Make them laugh.  Scenario: I was walking back from town toting some groceries (why I always manage to buy milk AND eggs at the same time, I’ll never really understand), and I was feeling good about making it through the busrank without any scarring experiences… when I noticed a cluster of guys communicating, briefly looking over their shoulder and pointing in my direction.  Well this should be interesting… nevertheless, I trudged on.  As could be expected, just as I passed them one began to frolic towards me, with the most ineffective, yet most-used pick-up line in all of Swaziland…”Mlungu, iyahpi? Ngiyatsandza” Which roughly translates to “Where are you going foreigner, I love you.” I know, I know, I’m crazy for wanting to run away.  Meanwhile, his friends were moving significantly slower, and were a good few feet behind him, watching this scene unfold as though it were from an episode of Generations. I was anticipating them to reach into their bags and start munching on some popcorn. All-the-while, it appeared as though they were doing the best they could to sustain any great bursts of laughter. I smiled knowingly at them, and questioned “ninjani?” How are you? Thus, letting on that I new ample enough SiSwati to entertain their hopefully brief conversation. As I trudged onward, the man persisted to tell me that we were going to get married and live in one of those houses conveniently sitting on my left, as I persisted to contrast everything he said… then a few school girls approached us, and they too were taking in the scene with relative looks of amusement plastered on their faces. I realized then that I could let myself in on the joke with a little help from some unexpected studio audience members. As they got within “whispering” distance I cupped my hand around my mouth like I was letting them in on a secret and lightly said “Inyanzelayo!” which in dire situations could amass an army, but for this particular purpose just simply means “help”.  The girls began to giggle, and then my man friend, caught so off-guard by the fact that I knew even that word actually stopped, and LOLed in a way I’d never seen anyone laugh like here before.  I continued on my merry way, and once he’d caught his breathe matched his strides with mine, but this time just left it at “Well, if you change your mind, I live over there”, I said “Hambani kahle” (go well), waved, and we went our separate ways. End scene.